It can be overwhelming figuring out where to start when you first learn how to tile and you’re installing tile floor. In 2021, over 3.05 billion square feet of floor tile was installed in US homes alone. The UK has seen similar trends over the last two years.
If you’re learning how to tile, you’re bound to make mistakes. But, making mistakes is key to growing your tiling career. We have put together a list of the 10 most common mistakes people make when they learn how to tile, so that you don’t make them with your work. Follow these steps and you can’t go wrong.
1. SELECT THE RIGHT TROWL SIZE FOR YOUR FLOOR TILE
The size of your trowel needs to match the size of the tile. The larger the tile you are using, the deeper the grooves of the adhesive needs to be.
To create the deeper grooves, you need a trowel with deep notches. The deeper notches allow for adjusting while installing tile floor.
Make sure the adhesive you buy has phrasing like “large tile” or “large format” on it. This type of adhesive is thicker and holds the larger tiles, while also having a longer open time to work with the product. Consider the BAL XL Floor One adhesive.
Generally, the notches in trowels are square. The numbers you’ll see relate to the height and width of the notches in mm. For example, a 3×3 notched trowel will create a 3mm channel. This would be best for a smaller size tile, such as metro or small ceramic. For larger format we would look to use a larger toothed trowel such as a 20×20.
Remember that you will go through your thin set faster because you are using more. Roughly, 4-6kg adhesive per m2, so a 20kg bag will cover around 3 – 5 m2.
2. BREAKING THE TILE
When cutting tile, take some precautions to make sure you do not break them. Too many broken tiles will become wasteful and expensive.
There are two ways to cut a tile; with a manual cutter or an electric cutter.
For interior work, manual cutters are generally used. They take up little space and are easy to work with for beginners. But, there are some tricks to ensuring a clean score and snap to reduce your wastage or cracked tiles.
A score made with light pressure is all that’s needed to snap a tile. Heavier pressure can cause chipping in the top finish, and cause the snap to veer off from the score line.
Remember, the tile edge will be sharp so use something like our polishing pads to buff the edges down to take away the sharp edge. They can also be used to buff out any chipping in the top finish that can occur.
There are however some tiles that won’t break easily or nicely on a manual cutter, for these we recommend an electric cutter.
Using a diamond wet saw will leave a better finish, but it does take longer to cut each tile.
To get the best finish from an electric saw, let the blade do the work. Don’t pull the tile through the blade too quickly, as this can cause the tile to be pushed out of alignment and cut out of square.
If you hear the blade slow down as your cutting, then you are pushing too fast. The harder the material you’re cutting is, the slower you need to go.
3. INSTALLING TILE FLOOR ON SUBFLOOR
The subfloor is the surface that the tile gets installed on. You need a flat, even, and strong surface. If you do not have this your tile will sag and crack in places.
If the subfloor is not level, it’s advised to use a self-levelling compound to get the correct level before you start installing tile floor.
It’s common in the UK to also add matting to the subfloor to allow for some movement and prevent cracking or decoupling after the tiles have been laid.
If you have old vinyl flooring that is suitable you can tile right over it. This is assuming that the floor is thick enough to support the tile.
Keep in mind that you are raising the height of the floor when adding self-levelling compounds and matting. You might need to adjust the height of doors and other elements in the room to accommodate for the additional height on the floor.
4. LAYING THE TILE OUT WRONG
Installing tile floor requires planning, even if it’s a simple pattern. A diagonal pattern requires even more planning. If your tile is square, you can measure 45-degree angles.
Regardless of if your pattern is simple or not, it all starts by centring the tile in the middle of the floor. Work outwards from here and calculate the cuts needed at the edge of the room.
Build the design out around this first measurement. Check your lines with a straightedge as you work. Remember, measure twice and cut once!
5. WRONG GROUT
The wrong grout, or grout done wrong, can ruin the look of your tiling work. You want clean and even grout lines.
Mix your grout with a trowel until you have a peanut butter consistency. Using a drill or paddle mixer will introduce air which weakens the holding strength.
Be sure to let the grout rest for 10 minutes before using it. Skipping this step will result in a weaker grout that will crack.
6. INSTALLING TILE FLOOR PREPARATION
You need to clean and prep your surface before you tile. Remove any grease, dirt, or debris.
If you don’t do this step, the adhesive might not adhere to the floor as well. This is an issue most common when tiling bathroom or kitchen walls.
Use a water and mild dish soap mixture to clean the walls. If you have a lot of stains or build-up, use an abrasive pad.
7. NO BACKER BOARD OR TANKING
If you are tiling in an area with water, you need to use backer board and a tanking kit. The backer board stays stiff and prevents water from seeping into where it shouldn’t be, and the tanking kit keeps everything waterproof.
Cement board is the most durable type of backboard. It’s made of cement and sand, reinforced with fiberglass.
Fibre cement board is cement and sand, reinforced with wood fibre. It is like the other cement board but comes with limitations for use.
Glass mat gypsum works well for damp areas, but not places with constant water. They are silicone-treated gypsum and reinforced with fiberglass.
If you are tiling around a sink water-resistant drywall works well. It can resist the occasional splashing but not constant moisture.
8. SILICONE THE JOINTS
When tiling, one of the final steps is to silicone the joints. Using silicone in the edge joints allows for any movements that can occur between the tiles, floor, and walls.
To achieve the best result with your silicone, pipe a small amount in a straight line. Then use a spray bottle to lightly mist the silicone bead with a dilution of water and soap. This keeps the silicon damp before you clean it up.
Use either a specific tool for silicone to scrape the excess off and create a clean finish.
BUYING THE SUPPLIES
It is important to buy the right silicone for your work.
There are a few types suitable for kitchens and bathrooms which can prevent mould and mildew from growing.
You will also need to buy the right colour. Most stores will only carry white, clear, and almond. Head to a flooring supplier for more custom colour options.
LAYING THE SILICONE
Spend the extra money and buy a high-quality silicone gun. This will give you a smooth line and easy application. Cheaper guns will cause your line to be too thick and too thin in places.
Line the area you intend to silicone with masking tape. This will give you a clean line on either side.
Cut the nozzle to match the width of your gap. This will make the line match the size you need. The final step is to remove the masking tape while the silicone is still wet.
9. NOT BUYING ENOUGH TILE
The main reason for not buying enough tile is because you failed to plan ahead. Take the time to make the proper measurements and then check them.
Start by measuring the length and width of the area you plan to tile, then multiply these two measurements. This gives you the square footage. Divide the square footage that comes in the box of tile by your room’s total square footage.
This number is how many boxes it will take to cover the floor. Next, you need to calculate the overage. Multiply your room’s square footage by 10% and then add this to the room’s number. Then divide by a single box square footage.
This new number is how many boxes you need to buy. The extra boxes will cover cuts, breakage, and waste.
10. INSTALLING TILE FLOOR
With all the advice we have given you from the previous 9 steps, you should be prepared for installing floor tile. But, to make things a little easier, let’s recap:
- The right equipment such a trowel size, manual or electric cutter and the right blade or scoring wheel will make things easy from the start.
- Make sure the subfloor and base is flat and level from before you start.
- Planning is everything – make sure you chat with your customer to select the right style and size tile they want, and then plan the layout of the tiles.
- Follow the instructions for your grout applications.
- Ensure everything is clean before you start.
- Make sure you select the right backing board for the room and type of tiles. Any wet areas also need to be tanked or waterproofed.
- Silicone the outer joints to allow for movement in the subfloor and walls to avoid cracking and uncoupling in the tiles.
- Make sure you buy enough tiles for the square meterage of the room, and then tiles for the overage too. This way you won’t be caught short without tiles, or have to buy tiles again from a different batch.
- Mistakes happen on every job, no matter how hard you prepare or how experienced you are. If you’re prepared for these mistakes, then you can carry on without stopping or having it cause too many problems for your work.
Now you have all the tips and tricks you need for great floor tile installation. Get ready for your next tiling project with one of our premium diamond blades.
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